Before you call anyone out, there are a few simple, safe checks you can do yourself. Some issues – a flat remote battery, a dirty photocell, a tripped switch – you can sort in minutes. Here's where to start.
Start here: the quick checks
- Is there power? Has there been a power cut? Is the gate's isolator switch on, and has anything tripped at the fuse board?
- Is it the remote? Try a different remote, the keypad or the intercom. If those work, it's probably the remote's battery.
- Is anything in the way? Bins, cars, branches, leaves on a sliding gate track, gravel at the bottom of the gate.
- Are the photocells clean and clear? Dirty or blocked photocells stop gates closing.
- Is the manual release engaged? If someone's used the release, the motor won't drive the gate until it's locked back in.
Troubleshooting Electric Gates in Carlisle
A gate that stops working can be stressful, but plenty of problems turn out to be simple. A tripped supply, a dirty photocell or a flat remote battery can all stop a perfectly healthy gate in its tracks, and they're things most owners can check safely.
The guides on this page take you through those first checks step by step. They're written for homeowners, not engineers, and they stick to what's safe to look at without opening the control box or touching the wiring.
If the quick checks don't sort it, that's when it's time to call us.
When to Call in Automatic Gate Repairs
Some faults need proper test equipment and experience: control boards that have taken in water, motors that have burnt out, safety devices that have failed or settings that have drifted. Trying to fix these yourself can make things worse, or leave a gate that isn't safe to use.
Please never bypass a photocell or safety edge to get a gate moving. Those devices are what stop a gate closing on a person, a pet or a car.
When you call, a short video of what the gate is doing helps us enormously. We'll often have a good idea of the problem before we arrive, and you'll get a price before we start.
Find your problem
| What's happening | Read this |
|---|---|
| Gate won't open | Electric gate won't open? |
| Gate won't close, or reopens | Electric gate won't close? |
| Sensor or photocell problems | Diagnosing issues with electric gate sensors |
| Stopped after a power cut | Not working after a power cut |
| Grinding, clunking or squealing | Noisy electric gates |
| Remote not working | Gate remote not working? |
| Intercom not working | Gate intercom problems |
| Gate sagging or catching | Sagging or misaligned gates |
| Sliding gate problems | Common sliding gate problems |
| Not sure – just not right | Signs your electric gate needs a repair |
Where to stop
These guides only cover safe checks. Please don't:
- open the control box – it has mains electricity inside
- disconnect, bridge or bypass photocells or safety edges
- change force or speed settings
- try to force a stuck gate or motor
Those are jobs for an engineer. Getting them wrong can make a gate dangerous.
Still stuck?
If the gate's stuck open or shut, use the manual release if it's safe to, and then call or WhatsApp Adrian on 07854 037752. A short video of the gate trying to move helps me diagnose it.
Questions people ask me
Why has my electric gate stopped working?
The most common causes are power, remote batteries, blocked or dirty photocells, and a manual release left engaged. Check those first.
Should I reset my gate?
Turning the power off and on at the isolator can clear some faults. See how to reset your electric gate.
Do you charge for advice?
No – if you've a quick question, just call.